New Balance 509

509

Throughout the first half of the 2020s, New Balance released a series of retro-inspired mesh running shoes repurposed as casual sneakers. While some are based on hugely popular models, others are modern reimaginings of lesser-known silhouettes, one of which is the understated New Balance 509.

Like many other athletic shoes from the Y2K-era, the 509 features a base layer of open-cell mesh with curvilinear leather panels layered over the top. These mostly cover the lower half of the upper, leaving large areas of mesh through the quarter and collar, as well as across the tongue, making it highly breathable. The sizable toe cap and broad rear overlay add durable protection at each end of the foot, with a substantial mudguard sloping gently upwards along the flanks towards the heel. Lace loops at the top and bottom of the tongue help secure the foot, ensuring solid lockdown for a confident step.

The updated version of the New Balance 509 is built upon a more contemporary sole unit which has already proven its reliable design on models like the 530 and 740. ABZORB cushioning provides a strong blend of impact protection and comforting softness, while the rubber outsole incorporates powerful blocky lugs through the forefoot and horseshoe-shaped grip pads around the heel for solid traction. Lastly, a sturdy shank offers trademark New Balance stability through the midfoot.

Stylistically, the 509 exhibits a classic 2000s-era look, with a stylish aesthetic forged by its sleek overlays and the curved design lines along the sides of its midsole. Small N logos adorn the flanks, each with a ridged surface which brings added dynamism to the silhouette. Meanwhile, a slim rectangular tongue patch displays the brand’s NB logo, thus completing the 509’s heritage style.

The New Balance 509 was launched via a bold collaboration with Kim Dohee, founder of progressive South Korean apparel brand XLIM, in autumn 2024. Announcing the distinctive design on social media, Kim highlighted the special ice dyeing process used to give the glossy patent leather panelling its own unique tonal character on each individual shoe. During Paris Fashion Week in January 2025, New Balance unveiled another 509 partnership, this time with Japanese label Comme des Garçons. Consisting of two sophisticated colourways in gracefully neutral shades with all-leather uppers, this collaborative design is even sleeker and more stripped-back than the original silhouette. Following this, XLIM released another new edition with plush suede instead of leather for a more retro appearance.

Backed by striking collaborations that range from shiny and futuristic to vintage and refined, the New Balance 509 is a compelling casual sneaker. Combined with its use of tried-and-tested technologies and quality materials, this ensures that it is also comfortable enough to be worn all-day, everyday.