New Balance 550

550

During the 1980s, New Balance developed its suite of basketball trainers, starting with models like the Pride 480. While a quality shoe, the brand wanted to improve upon its design, so they created the P550 Basketball Oxford: an accessible low-top made for everyone from college players to NBA stars. Over thirty years later, a chance rediscovery saw it return as a retro sneaker.

The New Balance 550 has a premium leather upper with layers of curvilinear panels that make it strong and durable. Perforations on the flanks bring ventilation, while the generously padded tongue makes for a comfortable instep. The heel also features decent cushioning, and its sturdy counter adds robust structure to the back of the foot, securing it and providing the wearer with solid balance. This effect is enhanced by the heel clip, with the so-called ‘Sway Bar’ preventing players from rolling their ankles during dynamic lateral movements.

The 550 has a vintage cupsole that offers a reliable blend of comfort, stability and durability. Its ample midsole of EVA foam is thick in the heel and thin in the forefoot, so the wearer experiences both impact protection and ground feel. This is supported by a flat, non-marking rubber outsole with broad tread lines, chunky lugs and a forefoot pivot circle, making it a powerful component that is at once hard-wearing and grippy without compromising on flexibility.

As well as being built to be strong, dependable and comfortable, the New Balance 550 has a compelling retro aesthetic. Its chunky sidewall logos were inspired by graffiti culture and pop art, while its heritage tongue patch displays a bouncing NB basketball. 550 branding has been subtly embroidered into the lateral forefoot, with further branding on the heel completing the stylish upper.

Following the 1989 release of the New Balance 550, the model disappeared from the footwear landscape for many years, and it was only thanks to Aimé Leon Dore’s Teddy Santis that it returned. In 2018, the creative director spotted it in an old catalogue and realised its potential to be a suave lifestyle silhouette. Two years later, following a complex development process, New Balance and Aimé Leon Dore brought out four retro colourways with off-white uppers, pre-aged midsoles and bold tonal highlights that referenced the team-inspired colours of the original court shoe.

The relaunch was incredibly successful, leading to general release designs with throwback colour-blocking and more eye-catching collaborations with fashion labels like AURALEE, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and thisisneverthat, as well as legendary American sports agent Rich Paul and renowned New Balance collaborator Joe Freshgoods. As a result, the 550 has become a popular everyday shoe worn by sneaker-enthusiasts and fashion-conscious celebrities such as brand ambassador Jack Harlow, model Hailey Bieber and pop star Taylor Swift.

Despite being forgotten for several decades, the New Balance 550 is now a beloved silhouette in modern sneaker culture. Its practical design offers immense comfort, stability and support, while its dapper vintage look makes it a versatile styling option.